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Celebrity-endorsed wines are everywhere right now but our wine writer's favourite is one you probably don't know exists

Katie Spain
Katie Spain

The Killers drummer and former Sonoma vineyard owner Ronnie Vannucci Jr. has collaborated with the team at Paxton Wines in South Australia.
The Killers drummer and former Sonoma vineyard owner Ronnie Vannucci Jr. has collaborated with the team at Paxton Wines in South Australia. Ben MacMahon

A celebrity-endorsed wine (or any wine, for that matter) is only as good as the land on which it was grown, the fruit with which it was crafted, and the team that guides it through the winemaking process.

The Killers' drummer, avid wine lover and former Sonoma vineyard owner Ronnie Vannucci jnr is well aware of this. That's why the American rock star chose to collaborate with the team at Paxton Wines in South Australia. The decision to make a McLaren Vale shiraz happened over a glass of wine (or several) among mates.

"Ronnie has been visiting Paxton Wines for the past decade," says Paxton's global sales and marketing director (and musician) Brian Lamb. "Every time he was on tour in Australia with the band, he'd visit us."

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Mutual friend Tim Jones, a doctorate professor of drumming at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas, introduced the musician and the wine brand. Dr Jones, Vannucci's former drum teacher, grew up in McLaren Vale and went to school with Paxton's operations and logistics manager, Ben Paxton. One thing led to another and the idea for Baterista was born. "Baterista simply means 'drummer' in Spanish," Lamb says. "It ties into the ode to rhythm, which is the backbone to the wine."

Stylistically, it is a nod to classic McLaren Vale shiraz – the type of wine that put McLaren Vale on the map from the 1970s onward, says Lamb. "It is the style of wine that made this region internationally famous and adored. We wanted to go back to the roots and showcase the origins of this region and what we do exceptionally well."

The small-batch drop is made from Paxton's prestigious Jones Block vineyard. Just 768 bottles of the inaugural 2017 vintage were made. "We decided to take the best parts of the best rows," Lamb says.

The decision to make a McLaren Vale Shiraz happened over a glass (or many) of wine among mates.
The decision to make a McLaren Vale Shiraz happened over a glass (or many) of wine among mates.Ben MacMahon

"A lot of celebrity wines go the opposite way – they make it cheap as chips and make 10 million cases of it. We want to give a lot of integrity and provenance to the product and make it from the best of what we do.

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"Ronnie really appreciates that. He is very passionate about organic and biodynamic farming and the single-vineyard, handcrafted approach to winemaking. He is also socially conscious, environmentally conscious and is a very conscious consumer. It fits."

You won't see Ronnie's name or face on the front label but look closely and you'll see his signature subtly placed on the back label, alongside Paxton owner David Paxton's. "Ronnie isn't into the idea of what he calls a vanity project," Lamb says. "It was never about that. It's a philosophical collaboration; his passion is aligned with our passion."

The biodynamic McLaren Vale shiraz 2019 Baterista by Paxton, $75.
The biodynamic McLaren Vale shiraz 2019 Baterista by Paxton, $75.Ben MacMahon

Katie's verdict

2019 Baterista by Paxton, $75

US band The Killers are a lovable bunch, with mass appeal and earworms galore. Drummer Ronnie Vannucci jnr is a driving, commanding drummer who brings bags of energy to the music and live performances. It's fitting that this biodynamic McLaren Vale shiraz has the depth and piercing flavour to match. What a collab. Small-batch (fewer than 800 bottles) from Paxton Wines' Jones Block vineyard (50+ years old and counting). It's a class act. Unforgettable, like a really great riff. 14 per cent ABV, paxtonwines.com

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